Benin doesn’t have a government-established social security system, but people take care of each other informally through their social networks. Beninese are proud of their tightly woven communities and the attitude here is “one for all and all for one”. People who have wealth are expected to share it with those who have less, and helping others is seen as privilege. Or at least a duty. Those who get caught trying to hide their wealth are frowned upon and ostracized from the community. Considering tourists, the Beninese find it incomprehensible when a wealthy tourist insists on splitting the bill and refuses to pay for everyone's meal at the restaurant. It is seen as self-centered and stingy. 

Here, money and relationships mix. This informal social security system relies on connections, but the connections come with a price. In the small village of Grand Popo, people know each other’s business - rivalry, gossip and jealousy thrive here. So, I pay the tailor in hopes of getting a glimpse of the inner workings of the community. I learned a bunch of mundane things: There will be a funeral on Saturday. It will be in the nearby church. The relatives of the deceased are arriving from Cotonou. I also learned that the building of Villa Karo used to be a hospital before it was converted into a cultural center.

But there is something specific I want to know. I ask the tailor about the homeless man who hangs around the Villa Karo. I remember him from 6 years ago due to his dissociated state of being and the odd behavior that continues to this day. The tailor dodges the question saying that he is just crazy. I dig a little deeper and finally, the tailor reveals that the homeless man had killed someone a long time ago. When I ask if he went to prison for it, the tailor looks serious and says “No, he was punished by God”.


Cheers, 
Anna

Letters from West Africa

Day 10. Gossips