We had a special opportunity to witness the process of making pottery in the nearby village called Sé. Sé is less than an hour’s drive away from Grand Popo and it is known for its traditional pottery and the extensive pottery market. As we drive through the market it becomes easy to imagine that every Beninese householder buys their pots from Sé. The market is a continuous string of tables filled with terracotta cups, bowls, plates and jars of different sizes. Some vendors have even decorated their bowls with elaborate patterns and paint to stand out from the competition. 

The process starts with wetting the clay so it’s moldable and has a structure a little denser than the toothpaste. The clay is then rolled and squeezed into a shape resembling a distorted coffee mug. The magic happens when the women take a wet cloth and roll it around the edges of the mug, transforming it gradually into an opening for the pot. The pot to be is then left to dry for a night and the next day, when the clay is denser the bottom of the pot is rounded with a fist and a spoon. The pot is then left to dry in the sun and later it will be burned in the oven where it will get its beautiful brownish-red finish. 

Letters from West Africa

Day 13. Clay

Pottery is for women, men should not touch the clay. At least this is what the Beninese have traditionally thought. The gender roles are still strongly divided in Benin and as the women often take care of the household, making pottery is in their hands. Quite literally.